Surfing is in a wonderful place, and if you think otherwise you’re either not paying attention or trying to be pro.
The industry may be about as prosperous as the current wild Koala population (too soon?), but everything else is flowering in abundance! Spring has sprung and the phoenix rises from the ashes. Surfing was never about the financial climate of surf corporations, surfing is about the love, man! It’s about the blatant disregard for personal responsibilities in the face of impending green rooms, brah! For real though, it’s pretty fucking great right now, and here are 3 reasons why:
‘Rider-owned’ is back
You think surfers would actually be proactive if they could just paddle out for 20 and then bank their cheques? Rhetorical question, because no one would be proactive if they could kick back and sip piña coladas instead. But, thankfully, innovation wins again and surfers are actually doing things! It’s magnificent and fills me with joy and makes my cheeks blush. Honourable mentions go to Beach Head by Ian crane and CH11.tv by Dane (obv) on the media front and to Former and Highline Surf Co on the shirts and pants sector.
Australian Surfing is also back
For a while, there were murmurs floating about the world of surf that Australian surfing was ‘dead,’ or the future of Australian surfing was ‘bleak.’ This could mainly be caused by the majority of the surf audience being blinded by the men’s tour and believing an Aussie hasn’t won a title since Mick Fanning in 2013 (Steph won in 2018 and Tyler Wright in ’17 and ’16). However this assumption came to be, it has been completely and mercilessly destroyed by the flagrant ascension of a new gen’ of future greats. Now the sentence reads a little more like ‘The future of Australian surfing is de-Ethan Ewing, Liam Obrien, Jai Glindeman, Kael Walsh, Shaun Manners, Jacob Wilcox, Jack Robinson, Jaleesa Vincent, Macy Callaghan, Holly Wawn’ and a bunch of other amazing wonderful guys and gals in this amazingly wonderful world of surf. Not even 2020 can fuck with this wave of positivity (pun intended).
The Brazillian Female Storm
The Brazillian storm is not the only thing blowing at category 5 on the Saffir-Simpson Hurricane Wind Scale, my sweet surfer friends—the Female Storm is also starting to garner some serious headwinds. Women’s surfing is rapidly replacing bikini ads with Teahupoo tubes and shipsterns ledges, which is super-badass and totally wonderful. Girls are doing it their way and taking surf-stride with grace and panache as only women know how. Honourable mentions to Jaleesa Vincent & Laura Enever for also being wonderful and badass too.
Mahalo, you fucking surfers, goddamn nerds.