Ah surfing, what a strange little sport practiced by strange little men (and beautiful, strong women).
It’s been an eventful week in surf world, and as usual it’s Kelly Slater’s wavepool that’s been grabbing eyeballs. But christ, even he looks bored riding that thing now—if you were unfortunate enough to watch that cringeworthy news clip with the woman with the horrendously nasal voice, you’ll see the king looking, tired. Thankfully, surfing isn’t in the olympics, yet, and lots of cool stuff in the real life salty ocean happened this week too. Here’s our totally biased, and completely random look at the ‘dudes’ from this week, completely void of pumps and solar panels.
Mason Ho releases two clips in one week, for some strange reason.
I defy anyone not to enjoy Mason Ho, and the North Shore edit up top is the most entertaining clip I’ve seen from the Islands. But, why the fuck do pro surfers sit on footage for so long? The North Shore clip’s from last winter, duh, and the Bali trip was last year. Seeing footage seep out on Instagram just takes the shine off great surfing. Film dudes, do your job, get straight in the edit bay, keep that shit secret and then, Bam! All in one go internet melter. Just saying. And Tom Curren’s still epically weird and surfs like a man who knows something that the rest of us, so that’s reassuring.
Fiji was shit your pants huge: God saved a guy from drowning and a Yeti got a bomb!
Cloudbreak rumbled this week, and as usual, a selection of fruit baskets were there to meet it. Hawaiian Aaron Gold got belted and held down for two, maybe three waves (he can’t remember) before the hand of the almighty plucked him from the jaws of death, or maybe it was the Fijian water patrol, he can’t remember that either. Dane Gudauskas got a screamer, plenty of others did too, but DG looks like Harry from Harry and the Hendersons, and he meanders round the globe with a cheek splitting grin on his dial just, charging: That’s a truly commendable occupation.
Kepa Acero is surfing’s great explorer, and he’s had quite the year.
Kepa’s a cross between Hernan Cortes and Jaques Cousteau, and he’s perhaps the only true professional surf explorer. Famous for heading off into the wilderness armed only with a tent, a couple of boards and a camera (that he often sets up on the beach, points at the reef, and then paddles out and starts threading). This is a brief rap of the Basque countryman’s year, and boy, did he get tubed. The session at his home break Mundaka at the end in particular, is quite something.
Griffin Colapinto has arrived.
Griffin Colapinto’s long been a name on the lips of surf industry folk, and it seems that it wasn’t just hype. The kid’s smooth. He’s obviously overcome the awkward teenage growth spurts (remember those, jeez) and his surfing’s benefited. As an aside, does anyone else have an obsession with surfing and piers? Whether dudes are surfing through ’em, next to ’em, getting filmed from ’em, I love piers! Oh, and if you feel like getting lost down a surfing rabbit hole, apart from this one, then you could do a lot worse than Victor Pakpour’s ‘Vacation Club’ Vimeo.