This is what you (and I) missed out on yesterday. Maybe you didn’t miss out on this gold. Maybe you surfed this until your legs were in a gelatine like state and you were as dehydrated as a salted prune in the Gobi Desert. Maybe you chucked a few snaps of your empty line up onto Instagram. And to you I say fuck you sir. Photographer Chris Grundy sent through some of the evidence he fired off yesterday morning – a little session with TC and friends.
“I messaged Tom Carroll the night before to see if he was keen to shoot, as there looked like there was a bit of swell on the horizon. We met at South Avalon headland just before first light. As the sun started to appear we were greeted with a very nice East swell, and what looked to be a very fun morning. After a coffee, Tom quickly headed back home and grabbed a bigger board, and I met him at North Avalon car park. There was already a bit of a crowd building in and out of the water, and as the tide dropped and the wind swung due West, the conditions just got better. A few walked away with a broken board, one bloke hit his head on the sand bank, but most were pretty stoked and just paddled straight back out. I could barely keep my eye off the view finder, shooting over 2500 frames and filling three cards. I witnessed some pretty incredible things that morning, unfortunately I had to bail around 11 and headed off to work.” – Photos and words Chris Grundy